Diamonds at The Diamond Club Loose Certified Diamonds and
Diamond Rings
Diamonds at The Diamond Club Loose Certified Diamonds and
Diamond Rings from
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Diamond Education To start with some clarification about
diamond certificates. The two biggest laboratories in the world
are GIA and EGL. Both of these are reputable with the main
difference being that GIA applies a stricter grading system
where as the EGL approach is “softer”. This may result in the
same stone obtaining a different grading from the two
laboratories. GIA might grade the colour of a stone as “H”
where EGL might grade it as “G”. Both these laboratories grade
stones according to their prospective master set of stones.
This difference is also reflected in the price of the stone. A
stone with a softer grading will carry a bigger discount than a
stone with a stricter grading which equal out the playing
field. Colour and clarity grading is an
opinion of humans grading the stones and not an exact science.
The same lab might at different times (with different
employees) grade the same stone differently. However, on
the most important part of the grading report both laboratories
are exactly the same. The proportions of the diamond i.e. the
table width, total depth, and crown and pavilion angles
etcetera are an exact science and are measured and calculated
using sophisticated measuring instruments. These
proportion of the diamond determents the brilliance of
the stone and therefore should be ideal. An ideal cut “H”
is a much better stone to buy than a poorly cut “F” Round
Brilliant: The most common style of cutting both diamonds and
coloured stones. The standard round brilliant consists of 57
facets; 1 table, 8 bezel facets, 8 star facets 16 upper-girdle
facets on the crown; 8 pavilion facets, 16 lower girdle facets;
and usually a culet on the pavilion. Modifications of the round
brilliant include such fancy shapes as the marquise, half moon,
pear shape and many others. Princess: Is a relatively new shape
and generally has 70 to 76 facets (no culet). Normally it is
close to a square shape (+ or - 10%), but may come in elongated
versions. Watch out for girdles which are extremely thin and
thus prone to chipping. Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to
1.00-1.10. Pear: A variation of the Brilliant cut, combining
the Round and Marquise cuts, with 58 facets to only 56 facets
(when the pavilion facets at the head and tail are eliminated).
Shoulders should have a gently but distinctly rounded arch.
Common length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.50-1.75. Oval: A brilliant
style of cutting very similar to a Round except it is
elliptical. It was invented by Lazare Kaplan in the early
1960s. Oval brilliant usually has 56 or 57 facets. Beware of
uneven or high shoulders (they should have a gently but
distinctly rounded arch). Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to
1.30-1.65. Marquise: This shape has a boat shaped girdle with
57 facets. The shape and placement of the facets is of the
brilliant type. The name "Marquise" came from a legend of the
Marquise of Pompadour that the Sun King wanted a Diamond to be
polished into the shape of the mouth of the Marquise. Look for
uneven "wings" or undefined points. Typical length-to-width
ratio: 1 to 1.75-2.25.Emerald: A form of step cutting. It is
usually rectangular but sometimes may be square, in which case
it is known as a square emerald cut. It has rows (steps) of
elongated facets on the crown and pavilion, parallel to the
girdle, and with corner facets. The number of rows of elongated
facets may vary, although the usual number is three in the
crown and three on the pavilion. Inclusions are slightly more
visible in "step-cut" shapes relative to "brilliant styles.
Look for too narrow or missing corners. The bevelled corners
protect the stone and make it easier to set. Typical
length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.30-1.70.Radiant: Rectangular or
square stone with cut corners. The original patented cut has 70
facets but it is readily available in modified versions with 62
to 70 facets. Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to 1.20-1.50 for
the rectangular stones. Heart: Look for uneven or flat "wings"
or too shallow cleft. Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to
0.90-1.10.Trillion: Popular choice for side-diamonds to enhance
centre diamond. Typical length-to-width ratio: 1 to
0.90-1.10.Cushion: Evolved from the 'Old Mine Cut' that was
developed before the turn of the century. It is square to
rectangular cut with rounded corners and 58 facets and is
characteristically with large facets, depth, and an open cutlet
(the tip on the bottom of the diamond).The four main factors
which determine the value of the diamond are: Size (Carat
Weight) Cut Colour
Clarity They are often referred to as the "Four C's". Carat
weight: A diamond's weight is expressed in carats. Carat
weight is the easiest of the four C's to determine. To get the
exact weight, however, the diamond must be loose. One carat is
divided into 100 "points" so that a diamond of 50 points is
described as a half carat in size, or 0.50 carat. Within common
weight ranges, there is little or no variation in per-carat
price. Cut: The cut of a diamond which is also referred
to as its facets relates to its proportion. Many cutters choose
to sacrifice some of the diamond's beauty to produce a stone
that is a larger carat weight. Cut, more than any other quality
aspect gives the diamond its sparkle. A diamond gets its
brilliance and scintillation by the cutting and polishing of
its facets, allowing the maximum amount of light that enters
through its top to be reflected and dispersed back through the
top. With proper cutting the light passes through the top,
bounces off the sides, and then travels back out the top,
giving the diamond optimum brilliance. If the diamond is cut
too deep, light passes through the side of the diamond. If the
diamond is cut too shallow, light passes through the bottom of
the diamond, also inhibiting maximum brilliance. Two popular
overall proportion indicators are Total Depth Percentage (D %)
and Table Percentage (T %). D% is the diamond's depth expressed
as a percentage of its width (average diameter for rounds). T%
is the diamond's "table" width expressed as a percentage of its
overall width (diameters for rounds). Round diamonds with
cutting proportions within the range generally considered
attractive have depths from 55 to 63 percent. The table size of
most round diamonds lies between 56 and 64 percent. With
non-round shapes ("fancy" shapes), much greater proportion
variations are encountered. In most fancy shapes, higher D% and
T% are more common and are dependent on width to length ratios.
Round Facet Diagram Colour: Diamonds come naturally in
almost every colour of the rainbow. However, most people prefer
diamonds in the white range. Colourless diamonds are more
valuable, because they are rarer and their lack of colour, or
whiteness, in a diamond that allows the light to pass
effortlessly through the stone and disperse that beauty back to
the observer. The colour grading scale established by the GIA
(Gemmological Institute of America) varies from D (totally
colourless) to Z (light yellow). D through F is virtually
colourless. G, H and I diamonds appear colourless when mounted.
J, K and L diamonds look very nearly colourless, but you can
see some colour in larger stones. Beyond M, most people can see
colour pretty easily. The colour of the metal in a mounting can
either mask or enhance the diamond colour. Yellow gold makes
slightly yellow or brown diamonds appear more colourless. White
mounting (gold or platinum) makes the colour more perceptible.
Colour Diagram Fluorescence: Fluorescence is not formally a
colour grading term. Many diamonds glow when exposed to light
which contains relatively high amounts of ultraviolet. This is
due to a natural interaction between the light's energy and the
atoms in the diamond. Some diamonds, (about 10%), fluorescence
strongly enough so as to be somewhat noticeable in regular
(incandescent) light. Strong fluorescence in colourless to very
near colourless grades (D through G) sometime can give the
diamond a hazy appearance. Generally, for very light yellow
colour diamonds, fluorescence is considered to be beneficial
since it makes the diamond appear whiter. The beauty of any
diamond that exhibits 'faint' fluorescence is not adversely
affected in any way Clarity: Clarity describes the
clearness or purity of a diamond. This is determined by the
number, size, nature, and location of the internal (inclusions)
and external (blemishes)
imperfections.
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